Sunday, July 01, 2001

ahh, Matt, i do wish you could be here to surf as well. while i'm not to the hanging 10 stage yet (actually, i'm still working on the standing up stage), i'm getting better. slowly. today, i caught a decent wave in and for the first time felt how changing my center of gravity changes the way the board handles. it was a realization that only practice can teach you, like the first time you caught a wicked jump or downhill on your mountain bike really well. every time i go out there i learn more and more. even if i don't get any good waves, it's still a blast.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home