with any new activity or hobby, there comes a point where things just snap into place, come clearly into focus and it suddenly becomes lucid beyond all doubt exactly what you're doing. this happened to me today. i was out at pipes, bobbing in the sea on the longboard, just to the left and behind the "serious" surfers in the lineup. some beautiful waves were coming in on an otherwise calm sea (see the surf report, below). then i saw a large swell and i knew i was going to take it in. i did a 180, laid down on the board and paddled like hell. it rose behind me, looming like a pissed-off second grade teacher. i paddled like a motherfuck, keeping the nose just an inch or so above the water. i felt the wave start to come in close behind me and i let it start to have it's way with me.

then i grabbed it. i took it, snaked it, ran with it. i whispered sweet nothings to it. i stroked it, played with it. i caressed it and told it everything was gonna be alright, baby. i smiled at it, looked it in the eye and then...

i fucked the hell out of it!

i surfed. it all made sense. everything clicked. it felt great. wonderful. orgasmic. stellar. brilliant.

it ranked up there with the first time i had sex, tripped, aced a test i studied my ass off for or jumped an obstacle while mountainbiking. it felt fucking great, in the way that things will stick with you for the rest of your life.